Christmas Brownies

Chill the whole slab first. An hour in the fridge, or twenty minutes in the freezer, firms the fudge so the edges cut sharp instead of smearing. Lift it out by the parchment onto a board, then cut with a long knife wiped clean between cuts. For trees, slice the slab into strips the height you want and cut each strip into alternating triangles, point up then point down, so nothing goes to waste. A cookie cutter works on a slab under three quarters of an inch thick: press straight down and lift, never twist. Decorate while the brownies are still cold so the frosting sets on contact and the sprinkles stay put.

Change the cocoa, not the dye. Black Cocoa is ultra-Dutched until it bakes near-black on its own, with little to no food coloring, and the flavor stays smooth and low in acidity. Start by swapping a third of the recipe's cocoa for Black Cocoa and go up from there; a 50/50 blend with Dutch-Process Cocoa is where most bakers land, dark enough to read as black with the rounder flavor of the Dutch. The easiest recipes to convert are the ones already written for Dutch-process cocoa and baking powder, since the leavening does not depend on the cocoa's acidity. A teaspoon of Espresso Powder deepens the flavor to match the color.

On top, after the bake, for the look and the crunch. Candy cane stirred through the batter melts into soft pink pockets of mint, which some recipes on this page want, but it is never the striped crunch in the photo. Press the crushed candy onto the brownies while they are still warm so it sticks, or scatter it over a layer of ganache or peppermint frosting while that is soft. For crunch, add it within a few hours of serving; candy cane pulls moisture out of a sealed container and goes soft overnight. Put the peppermint flavor in the batter with a half teaspoon of extract and keep the candy on top.

Yes, and they are one of the best bakes for it. Bake the slab, cool it completely, then wrap it whole in plastic and foil and freeze for up to three months. Thaw it in the wrapper overnight on the counter, then cut and decorate; an uncut slab stays fudgier than squares. Already-frosted brownies freeze in a single layer on a sheet pan first, then stack with parchment between. Cheesecake swirl brownies freeze well too, but keep them in the fridge once thawed. Crushed candy cane, sprinkles and any crunchy topping go on after thawing.

Fudgy, every time. A fudgy brownie holds a clean cut edge, stacks without crumbling, cuts into trees and stars without breaking, and stays moist for four or five days, which is what a tray that sits out for an afternoon needs. Fudgy comes from more fat against less flour: more butter and chocolate, less flour, and a cocoa that brings its own fat. Dutch-Process Cocoa Powder carries 22-24% cocoa butter, which is why brownies built on it bake dense and moist rather than dry. Pull the pan when a toothpick comes out with moist crumbs, not clean; the center sets as it cools.

Cool them completely, then either ship the slab whole, wrapped tight in plastic and foil, for the person at the other end to cut, or wrap each square in parchment or plastic and pack them snug in a tin so nothing slides. Fudgy, unfrosted brownies travel best and keep four or five days at room temperature, so two-day shipping lands them with time to spare. Ganache and candy-topped brownies are fine if the box stays cool; skip cream cheese swirls, which need refrigeration. Tuck a layer of parchment between stacked squares and fill any gap in the tin with crumpled paper.